Why do dogs pull on the leash?


Why do dogs pull anyway? Not only is it annoying and exhausting, it can become dangerous. Here are nine reasons why dogs pull.

1. Reflex

If I pushed you, you would push back. This is a natural human reflex. Dog’s have the same reflex. If they feel pressure, they will immediately apply pressure. We put their collar on, attach the leash, and now we’ve assembled the best combination to create bad habits.

2. If It Feels Right, We Do It

I have been going to the batting cages the last few weekends just to have fun and relax with my friends. I haven’t had a bat in my hands since I was 10, which was 10 years ago, or maybe 20.  Okay it’s been around 20 years since I’ve had a bat in my hands, but immediately I knew what to do. I played fast pitch softball in the “little leagues.” It was during that time that my coach, my sisters, and my dad were always instructing me about my position and swing.


(Now you can criticize my batting stance, haha)

During my batting cage fun, my friend made a recommendation that I change the way I hold the bat. I tried, but it just didn’t feel right and I was incredibly uncomfortable. I realized that I had been so conditioned 20 years ago that I had to do “what felt right.” Dogs do the same with pressure on the leash. For weeks, months, or even years the dog has become accustomed to the pressure when on a walk and then the pressure just starts to “feel right.” He will continue to walk with pressure until you condition a different response. Just like it will take time to change my batting stance, it will take time to recondition a different “feel” for your dog when he’s leashed.

3. Nothing Natural About the Leash

As a trainer, I can easily teach dogs to “sit” or “lie down” on cue fairly quickly, but leash walking is another story. I truly believe that a large part of this is because there is nothing natural about the leash in a dog’s world. In my group classes, I will often hold the leash and “be the dog” so the students can practice the training methods. I don’t really enjoy “being the dog.” I think a big reason is because I don’t know where I am going and when I decide to move one direction, my student decide to move in another. I can see how this could be frustrating for a dog.

4. Handling Skills

In addition to getting pulled in places I don’t want to go when we do the leash exercise, I usually get a yank or come to a quick halt at the end of the leash because the handler doesn’t check in with me or communicate directly with me.  I am sure that dogs feel the same frustration that I experienced.

A lack of handling skills is another reason why dogs pull. The skills of the handler (human) are crucial with the leash. The way the handler applies and releases pressure to the leash communicates to the dog. This is certainly a learned skill. Some people naturally know how to use this tool and others must put some elbow grease into learning it.

The way the handler applies and releases
pressure to the leash communicates to the dog.

5. Lateral Movement is Unnatural 

Adult human’s natural desire is to walk in a straight line (lateral). Children and dogs, however, don’t. They are all over the place! A mom of two 3 year olds writing here!!


In the dog world, walking laterally towards another “being” (dog, human, etc) is seen as a threatening move. It’s interesting to me when observing dogs in group class, I typically see a slight curve when the dogs recall across the room or lawn to their owner as they are demonstrating “dog etiquette” to their owner.

6. Stress From the Owner

One of the jokes among dog trainers is “keep your butt cheeks loose.”  I know my mom is probably blushing that I even wrote this on a public blog, but there’s truth (and humor) in it. When we are tense, our muscles are also tense. Staying in tune or checking in with your body is always a good thing for you to do while leash walking. I have been training almost a decade and still have to do this. It happens to the best of us. We hold our breath as well, so make sure your breath touches the bottom of your lungs before you let it out.

Most dogs don’t have a regular job, so they have taken it upon themselves to making you their full time job. They study you and they are very good students. The slightest movement from you can communicate a million things. This is why it’s important for you to breathe because tense muscles or holding your breath will concern your dog and in return raise his stress level.

I think you know what it’s like when you are relaxed and a friend either talks you into a level of stress or because of their body language and tone of voice you begin to become stressed yourself.

Stay aware of your body as it will gauge your stress level.

7. Lack of Reinforcement of What You Want

When students first start training with me, I have them bring a lot of food. I share with them that they need to view their food as money. Every time the dog does exactly what we want, we put a “coin” in the bank account of that behavior. The more money we put in that account of behavior, the stronger the behavior will be. Once your bank account is strong and built you don’t have to continue adding as much money, it’s established and now bringing in interest for you.


Once you’ve established a strong behavior with your dog you will then randomly reinforce with food or other things. There must be a significant amount of time where the behavior is reinforced for you to see the behavior that you want. To learn more about reinforcement check out my blog “Food, Money, and Motivation.

8. Inability to Focus

Many times I hear people talk about their lack of leadership because their dog doesn’t focus when on walks. They are frustrated because their dog doesn’t listen at all when outside, but he does inside. A simple reason for this is because the environment is so rich, stimulating, or stressful that he honestly cannot focus on you. He needs more training to teach him the ability to use his own body to calm himself and think through his excitability.

So for a moment let’s imagine that I go bungee jumping (this would only happen in our imaginations, by the way). While the professionals are suiting me and a friend up for this crazy event, my friend is sharing with me all about the date she had the previous night.  I can almost guarantee that although I would have loved to hear about her experience I wouldn’t remember anything from that conversation. My adrenal glands would be in overdrive and my mind would be stuck on the fact that I was about to jump off a bridge. It wasn’t that I didn’t want to listen to my dear friend; I really wanted to hear about her life, but wasn’t able to in that moment.

In my book Control On Leash I wrote a Protocol for Focus and Relaxation that will help. For a limited time this protocol will be available for free. Click here for protocol.

9. Because You Reinforced What You Didn’t Want

“But once she gets to the person she stops pulling.” Oh, if I could earn a $1 every time I heard this comment!!  My immediate thought is, “Um, yes, it worked.” This behavior served your dog and now you have just reinforced the dog pulling to something she wanted which means it is more likely to occur.

Dog wants to get to person –> pulls on leash to person –> owner follows –> Dog greets person (reinforced for pulling)






Stop Your Dog from Leash Pulling (Part 2)


Many times humans are unaware that they are on a different communication wave length than dogs. The pet owner is frustrated because they think they are clearly communicating, but the dog is confused and many times begins to shut down. It reminds me of someone speaking English to a person who does not understand the language.  Instead of changing what they say or their gestures, they continue to say the same thing, getting louder each time. To work toward polite leash walking skills, you must first know how to successfully speak your dog’s language.


One of the ways we communicate to each other is through the movement of our hands and arms. “Move the chair over there,” we say as we extend our arm and point to the corner of the room. Other humans would automatically know where “there” is from the arm extension and finger point.  If we want to position our children just right for a family photo, we will use our hands to move them into the exact pose. We do the same with our dogs because, after all, we are human and this is the way we communicate to each other.


As our dogs begin to pull, our natural instinct is to pull the leash back with our hand and arm, to move them into the desired position. We assume our dogs understand that when we pull back on the leash they understand the desired position, but as we have observed the dogs just don’t get it.

The Body as a Whole

If you have ever watched a dog herd, he will move in the direction that he wants the flock to go. Dogs understand movement in a completely different way than humans.  Dogs use a combination of body movement, pressure and release of pressure to get the herd to move.  Rather than moving only your arm to communicate the direction you would like your dog to go, you must move your entire body.


Dogs understand movement in a completely different way than humans.  When walking him on the leash, rather than moving your arm to communicate the direction you would like him to go, you must move your entire body.

Opposite Day

If I wanted you to move closer to me, I would take steps close to you and you would naturally take steps toward me. Dogs are the opposite. If I take two steps toward a dog, he will take two steps back. Have you ever noticed when you start to walk toward your dog, unlike a human, he will back up?


To communicate on the leash in a way that your dog will understand, you must use your whole body movement in the opposite direction that you want him to go.

Michelle Huntting’s Training Method

You will need treats, clicker*, leash, dog, and bait bag (treat tote).
*Clicker is not required. Handler can use a verbal marker like the word “yes” instead.

For the first few times you work on this exercise, take the leash handle with your dominant hand and place your hand with the leash against your tummy (with hand flat pressing the leash against tummy, as shown in the picture of me below). This position will help you realize how much you are using your arms versus your body as a whole to get your dog into position.


How To Teach:

Step 1#:  Start walking.

As you are moving forward, observe your dog. If you get one to two steps with your dog at your side, fantastic! Click and deliver treats, but make sure you keep walking. Please do not stop and ask for a sit as you deliver a treat, and then move on. It is completely fine to slow way down especially at first while you get the hang of it to deliver the treat, but please continue the movement.


Also, be watching your dog for any intention of moving out in front of you.

Step 2#: (If dog goes out in front of you), stop and make a sound. The sole purpose of this sound is to be polite. When I was pregnant, I had gotten so dehydrated that I was admitted to the hospital for fluids. The nurse was taking me down a hall as I was attached to the IV pole. She turned to go in a different direction without saying a word to me as I continued walking forward. I quickly changed directions, but in that moment, I thought, “Wow that must be how dogs feel when they are on leash and no one alerts them of a change.” It has been my experience that a sound gives a polite “heads up” that we’re moving or changing direction. Again, this sound should not be correctional, but a polite sound to let him know you are changing directions. Sometimes I use a quick “kissing” sound, and I have also used a quick “hup” sound.


                I stopped because Boy went out in front of me. I made a sound and started moving back.

Please note: It’s crucial when you are going through this entire process that you go through the steps quickly. Don’t wait for him to look; simply go through the process. He will look at you once the movement begins.

Step 3#:  Start backing up until your dog is behind you or at your side.

It is important to make sure that he is actually beside you or behind you. Many new handlers think that right in front of them is okay and reinforce this position. Right in front is not beside or behind.

I will keep moving back until Boy is beside or behind me.

 Step 4#: When he’s behind or beside you, click (mark) and quickly move forward again.


Boy is behind me so I clicked and moved forward. Note from picture: With this method, at times when moving forward, you will need to shift the leash around your back to the front of your body again.

The reward in this situation is the movement forward, not a treat. If you treat after your dog moves out in front of you, your dog will more than likely learn the pattern of going out to the end of the leash and return for a tasty treat, and then repeat by going back out to the end of the leash.

Step 5#: During this entire process, any time your dog walks two or more steps alongside you, click (mark), and deliver a treat. Again, do not stop walking when delivering the treat, and never cue a sit when you are working on leash walking! Expect that it will take some practice to learn how to keep moving while you hand the treat to your dog, but I know you can do it. Watch your dog for ANY eye contact toward you; then click and treat.


Blog written by Michelle Huntting
This information is sourced from Michelle’s book, Control on Leash

Join Michelle Huntting for a Control on Leash Workshop in April!!

Control on Leash Workshop is one day of hands-on learning where you will gain all the needed tools to successfully gain a focused, calm, and self-controlled dog on leash.   Michelle brings together her years of research on a positive leash walking method that truly works combined with biofeedback and other innovative training techniques to set pet owners and their dogs up for success.   Michelle’s background in education and fun personality not only makes learning easy for dog handlers of all levels, but she provides ground breaking training techniques and new ideas for pet owners and trainers through this interactive workshop. You won’t want to miss it!

 Saturday April 12th 9:00am–4:00pm

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